Why measure?

The benefits of utilizing measurement in training are far-ranging - delivering benefits from increased motivation to improved quality.

We see it as a simple equation; Motivation + Quality = Consistency

Consistant training = consistent training effect = consistent gains.


Training, for most people, is not the most exciting part of climbing and it is very easy to slip into ineffective training habits.

A key issue with training is maintaining the motivation to do repetitive uncomfortable things. Compared to a good day out climbing fingerboarding is boring at the best of times so how to make it more interesting?

Tracking your gains
We train for results but for finger strength, the results tend to come quite slowly even if the little increments add-up huge gains with long-term consistent training.

But what if you could track the little increments? See the small improvements week-to-week and bigger ones month-to-month? Would that motivate you to keep at it, to keep trying hard? You betcha!

The Gnar Boards integrated scale enables you to measure your gains, kilogram by killogram, pound by pound.

Making your training session into a game of matching your target score helps improve training efficacy. By trying to tick every box on your training log you can gain satisfaction from a training session well done.


Tired after work? Did not sleep enough last night? Often it is difficult to be fired-up to train hard enough to try hard. Maybe we just feel a bit weak and just accept a poor session. Usually, this has nothing to do with your body - it is all in the head.

To maximise the effectiveness of your session you need to be stressing the muscles enough to stimulate growth. Low-quality sessions may be worse than not training at all - you tick the 'training' box but get little training effect.

The GnarBoard's integrated scale gives us the ability to get instant feedback for our repetitions and helps us see when we are slacking. If you perform an assisted one hand hang and need 20kg support when you should use no more than 8kg you know that you need to dig deep and try harder helping you to increase the quality of every training session.


Training routines are ten-a-penny and there is a new one for you to try almost every month but hopping between fads is the downfall of many an aspirant climber.

The best training routine is the one you do consistently over a long period of time.

The best thing about measurement is that it creates a positive feedback cycle. You can see your incremental gains, which increases your motivation which increases the quality of your training... which increases how consistently you train... which increases your gains.. which increases your motivation... and so on.


1. Order your Gnar Board so you can Train Anywhere

Going on holiday with the family? No problem.
Backpacking through Asia? No problem.
Working at sea? No problem.
Want to train during your lunch break? No problem.
Fingerboards at the gym are busy/manky? No problem.
Can't put a fingerboard up in your house? No problem.
Need to warm up better at the crag? No problem.

Now, nothing can get in the way of your training!

2. Download a Measure Point log-sheet

We have created an easy-to-use log-sheet with a number of strength tests that you can use to measure your current finger strength.

Based on these you can create a training plan which you can use for about 4 weeks before doing another Measure Point and updating the hang-times and reps.

3. Download a Training Log & create a training plan

Get our easy-to-use training log which helps you visualize your training, its effectiveness, and your progress.

Remember, what gets measured gets managed!